PolskiJonathan Anderson – Dior’s new sole creative director – is planning as many as 18 collections a year, making him the busiest designer in modern fashion and surpassing Karl Lagerfeld’s record of creating 10 collections a season for Chanel alone. However, there is much more controversy, as the young creator surprised with his first men’s collection for the French fashion house, setting a total new direction. The 41-year-old tastefully blends tradition and modernity, breaks the established patterns and boldly draws from the Dior brand’s archives. Anderson remains one of the most coveted names in the industry, and now all eyes are on him. Is he preparing another revolution?
Table of Contents:
- Jonathan Anderson – a silhouette of the designer and the road to Dior
- Dior under Jonathan Anderson: new directions and ambitions for the brand
- Jonathan Anderson vs. Karl Lagerfeld: who really holds the record?
- Dior’s 18 collection strategy: calendar and line splitting
- What does Anderson’s record mean for the future of fashion?
Jonathan Anderson – a silhouette of the designer and the road to Dior
Jonathan Anderson was born on September 17, 1984 in Northern Ireland. At the age of 18, he moved to the United States. He dreamed of an acting career and tried his hand at theater, but fell more in love with costuming than performing on stage. How did he get into the fashion world? He attended the London Collage of Fashion, having previously worked at department store Brown Thomas in Dublin. An internship with Prada as a visual merchandiser (responsible for creating displays and store windows) in London was the beginning of his career. JW Anderson is an auteur brand that was born in 2018. At first only men’s collections appeared, only later was a women’s offering introduced. 2010 marked Jonathan Anderson’s debut at London Fashion Week. This is a landmark moment in the young designer’s career, as the industry recognized his immense talent. A limited collection for TopShop or for Uniqlo (a regular collaboration) are considerable achievements. Designer Jonathan Anderson gained recognition by working with Versus (a cheaper Versace brand) and heading the fashion house Loewe* – for 11 years he created the history of the Spanish brand, including modifying the logo. The new style and iconic accessories (the iconic Puzzle bag) significantly influenced the company’s publicity. In 2015, Jonathan Anderson moved to Dior. The French company hopes that the talented creator will repeat the success of the transformation of the well-known brand , and above all, it will attract a younger clientele, and this will have a positive impact on sales results.
Dior under Jonathan Anderson: new directions and ambitions for the brand
Fashion house Dior is one of the oldest on the market. Founder Christian Dior literally revolutionized the industry with bold collections filled with French chic. Yves Saint Laurent tried to preserve the brand’s aesthetic and breathe a breath of fresh air, as did his successors. John Galliano and Maria Grazia Chiuri have provided stardom, but now it is Jonathan Anderson who is taking the helm at Dior. The designer intends to draw from the fashion house’s rich archive, but has a modern vision for the company’s development. He showed this in his first men’s collection, where he used elements familiar from old women’s lines. Certainly Jonathan Anderson will use his managerial skills and knowledge of marketing. He has already marked the direction he wants to go – matching old inspirations to the needs of current customers, while drawing heavily from the art world.* He reinforces the brand’s global vision by maintaining consistency. The young creative director is returning to Dior’s roots, nevertheless creating a new chapter in history.
The Dior brand, as well as Jonathan Anderson’s own company (a minority stake), is owned by the LVMH conglomerate (Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA).
Dior’s 18 collection strategy: calendar and line splitting
Dior is a French fashion house with traditions. Jonathan Anderson goes back to the company’s beginnings both in terms of organization and inspiration. He will be in charge of each collection, so it has a chance to maintain a consistent style. He will design the Dior Homme line (men’s line), as well as the women’s range, in addition to haute couture (luxury tailoring that must meet the rules and requirements of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture). He is the first creator since Christian Dior to have so much “power” and opportunity. This makes it necessary for him to prepare as many as 10 and sometimes more collections in a year. In addition to pret-a-porter (“ready-to-wear”) and “high tailoring” there are seasonal offerings, including Cruise (a collection designed for the holiday season during the colder season). Dior’s calendar is not complete without a presentation during Paris Fashion Week.
Jonathan Anderson vs. Karl Lagerfeld: who really holds the record?
Karl Lagerfeld is an iconic figure in the fashion world. The German designer worked for several brands at the same time, in addition to working in photography and other fields of art. Jonathan Anderson is equally talented and ambitious. The young creator easily prepared 18 collections a year, the creative director of Chanel did a maximum of 17 with usually no less than 14. Why such a huge number in the case of the Irishman? 6 collections for JW Anderson’s own brand, 2 for Uniqlo and 10 for Dior, before that he did the same number for Loewe.
Jonathan Anderson and Karl Lagerfeld heavily influenced the industry. The two had a lot in common, and not just when it came to the record number of collections released per year. The designers always drew on the brand’s heritage, but added a touch of modernity and their own aesthetics. The young creator definitely leans more towards the avant-garde, although he strongly values elegance. He blurs the boundaries between women’s and men’s styles, as he likes to break fashion stereotypes and bet on contrasts. Karl Lagerfeld leaned decidedly more towards rock accents, while wholeheartedly loving minimalism and timelessness.
Jonathan Anderson vs. Karl Lagerfeld: who really holds the record?
The fashion industry is constantly changing, and modern technologies have a huge impact on it. Designers have to adjust their strategies to the current times and skillfully manage the business. Jonathan Anderson is a creator who achieved spectacular success at a young age. The record number of collections shows his incredible talent, determination and unstoppable sources of inspiration. His excellent sense of trends and managerial skills help him create sales hits. However, such a large number of projects comes with the risk of burnout, as well as a lot of pressure from the environment. Anderson, like Lagerfeld, nevertheless does well and surprises with each new collection. Others are just trying to live up to their frenetic work mode.
Sources:
*https://www.lvmh.com/en/news-lvmh/loewe-presents-crafted-world-jonathan-andersons-loewe-a-journey-through-a-decade-of-creation
*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qc0WJWpX8tU
